Paul Smith, General Dispensary and Daniel Arsham

Paris will always love variety, especially in fashion. As Paul Smith and Officine Générale prove their excellence in casual tailoring, artist Daniel Arsham presents the first collection between art and fashion.

Paul Smith: The Revival of Joe Jackson

Post-pandemic tailoring at Paul Smith, who plays with multiple ideas of how men want to dress when they get out of prison.

Paul Smith – Fall-Winter2023 – 2024 – Menswear – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

Sir Paul Smith explained after the show: “I focused on my continuing love of ready-to-wear and tailoring, such as the zip-up jacket I wore, made from ready-to-wear but cropped.”

Although known for his color work, Paul Smith surprised audiences with his all-black opening, again using tailoring materials in unexpected ways, including side-cut velvet bouffants.

“After Covid, people wanted to dress more simply. Now they want to be smarter again, but not in the traditional way,” the famous British fashion designer said after his autumn show at the Cathedral of America in Paris. -2023/24 winter collection.

Sir Paul’s main idea was a series of capes inspired by 200-year-old rugs he recently discovered in Italy. Part of a Milanese collector’s collection, he plans to present it in his own art installation flagship London next spring.

“The rugs were always a bit of a weird color because they were hand-dyed,” he winked, pointing to his hat. mood boarda beautiful surprising mix of abstraction and color blocking.

Its silhouette varies by offering straight or oversized legs, while jackets are cut a few centimeters longer, reminiscent of 90s style. It works on details, with four buttons on the cuffs, still in the style of the 90s. Overall, white sneakers and dark suits, à la Joe Jackson style Is he really going out with her?

“I’m looking back at some of the things I’ve done in my very long, very long, very long, very long career. And I’m still standing in one way or another,” Paul Smith said, throwing up his arms and laughing. out loud.

Officine Générale: casual chic in navy and gray

“Loyalty to the Flats,” perfectly illustrated by Pierre Mahéon under the huge glass roof of the Tokyo Palace this Thursday. The founder of Officine Générale expressed his expertise in navy blue and gray casual chic at a fashion show called Monochro-mania.

Officine Generale – Fall-Winter 2023 – 2024 – Menswear – France – Paris – © ImaxTree

The easy construction of the house remains a signature. Like a wave moving on strong stringsSuperficial By Etienne Daho and Dominique A, with subtle color variations, the sailor is first expressed with long and heavy coats in wool over flowing silk shirts or light knitwear with oversized straight or longer trousers. For men, a suit can be a woolen, tucked-in and long-sleeved lightweight sailor-style sweater, or a looser corduroy worn with white sneakers, a light yellow shirt with an open collar, and misaligned. A woman wears a smart denim overall, a long skirt-sweater duo with English rib, or an oversized blazer worn over mini shorts with moccasins and socks for the bottom, and a sailor hat for the top.

Offering three transitions to models and allowing viewers to explore the offerings in detail, the sweeping gray look is just as suitable for fine artists as it is for young dynamic decision-makers, quickly styling with a subtle sense of repetition. And for good reason, these cater to marine offerings. The oversized gray coat for women thus features a beautiful dual material in navy blue wool fabric on the front and beige cotton canvas on the back. Gray satin velvet suit for men meets blue corduroy.

An exercise that can be dangerous, that offers several chromatic breaks in the show, but above all that allows the sublimation of cuts and materials, two hobbies of the French house. There’s also something about attention to the smallest details, especially the brown collar of the gray aviator jacket that perfectly matches the model’s belt, those silk scarves tied delicately around the neck, those little belt bags. in black or brown leather, gold or silver brooches on the lapels of blazers, or steel chains of various thicknesses protruding from the straight pockets of pleated trousers.

In this game of mirrors, the Finale brought the pair to life, ending with the duo clad in magnificent and enormous two-tone hats of fine wool, followed by a running salute to Pierre Mahéon.

Daniel Arsham: when artistic performance is expressed in fashion

There is a meeting point between fashion and fine art, and this is where Daniel Arsham’s proposal comes in. An area where clothes are more objects of art than clothes.

Daniel Arsham Fall/Winter 2023 in Paris – Daniel Arsham

That’s why the American designer organized the last fashion show in one of Daniel Perrotin’s art galleries deep in the Marais River, because this show was as much a spectacle as a fashion show.

The guests were greeted by three white statues standing on pedestals.

In the show, which began with Daniel Arsham breaking out his plaster jacket, he put it on a skinny young model who was already wearing trousers of the same material.

The collection, called Objects IV Life Chapter 003, which Arsham describes as “a uniform for the creative life,” includes quilted denim jackets with deep pockets, coats for bad weather, and trucker sweaters for “winter.” Stylish business wear with an artistic touch. Functional but with a lot of sophistication, just like this exhibition.

Arsham loves new clothing categories. For example, the combination of overalls – i.e. a shirt jacket over drawstring trousers.

But the most striking memory will remain his display around the plaster of Paris, a fashion approach we only see in Paris. Because if you love fashion here, it’s sometimes for art.

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